The Greek islands were a monolithic block. Little did I know or appreciate the vast diversity of these spectacular places. So when the opportunity was presented to join Magnum photographer Enri Canaj to join on a week long excursion to at least three of the islands, I jumped into it. There was no Santorini or Mykonos in the list – the two islands that seemed to be where every tourist goes to. But I trusted that where we were going would be gems in their own right. All of these islands have their own character, history, and landscapes. What is common is they all offer a breathtaking blend of picturesque landscapes, charming villages, and rich cultural heritage, that dates back centuries. While the past is evident, what is striking is the present. And the real treat is to step away from the touristy areas and get closer to the local way of life. Blending and charting places that are off the beaten track provides a unique perspective that is captivating and enticing at the same time. Tinos, Syros, and Naxos are three Cycladic gems.
I began our week in Tinos, the northernmost island in the Cyclades. I took a Ferry from the Rafina port in Athens early in the morning. After a 3.5 hour express ferry ride that took through the lovely Aegean Sea, I arrived around mid morning in Tinos. One of the attractions of this week was to stay in simple lodges and guest houses, that had all the basic amenities but kept us grounded in the place. The windows were left open to allow the fresh Aegean air. I started meeting my fellow workshop companions and very soon was out to explore the main attraction of Tinos, the renowned Panagia Evangelistria, a Greek Orthodox Church that draws pilgrims from across the country. The church is quite interesting. It is about kilometer from the port and straight uphill road leads to its gate. Many people who hold their vows are seen to crawl and go through the pain to reach the gates of the church. Depending on the pain want to take, some make it as difficult both in how long and how restricted they want their movement to be. I was told that there are many childless couple who have got their wish for their child fulfilled – and so it is a also a popular place for baptism – and I was lucky to see such a ceremony. The first encounter which has the commercial setups near the port is the the town of Chora. One cannot miss the typical Cycladic architecture with its narrow alleys, whitewashed houses, with blue doors and windows and charming squares. Our photo excursion began with driving through quaint towns and exploring the town of Pyros, which has a long standing marble sculpting culture. There a many marble quarries nearby and driving off-road to some of these quarries were a real treat of color and landscapes bordered with the distant shoreline and blue sea. Running through the full cycle of the marble from the quarry to the sculpting, including the school where young aspiring artists were trained was a spectacular experience. People were extremely friendly and welcomed with open hearts to be photographed and sharing their life. Tinos has lovely beaches Kolymbithra and Agios Fokas, but I stuck to exploring the villages such as, Votox and the old citadel on top of the hill. It is remarkable how over the centuries from Romans to Ottomans, that the stones along the hills were arranged. I am still in awe of the scale of work that has gone in. Tinos gave a perfect ensemble of Greek life that culminated in one of the most delicious meals that I had in company of my friends from the workshop, thanks to Enri, who took a few of us to Greek family run small restaurant for a home-cooked meal inside a small village – a meal to be remembered for a long long time. Tinos was clearly a hidden gem, an island that is still outside the radar of the usual tourist and maintains a true character.
After a couple of days in Tinos, we took the ferry to Syros, the capital of the Cyclades. Syros could not have been more different. Only half an hour from Tinos, it offers a unique blend of history, culture, and cosmopolitan ambiance. The town of Ermoupoli, known for its neoclassical architecture, stands as a vibrant cultural hub. It has a long heritage of shipbuilding and large yard stands majestic as the ferry pulls into the port. The alleys reminds me of old Roman towns – like villages in Tuscany – even the colors of the houses. There were may abandoned houses that I was told remains in dispute – so the dereliction was apparent. There are larger squares like the Miaouli Square and Freedom Square, with an impressive Town Hall. The Apollo Theater, a miniature replica of La Scala in Milan, hosts various performances throughout the year. There is some activity and many trendy bars and shops. The sharp contrast from Tinos took me by surprise that I was struggling to make good pictures. The first I was a bit lost photographically, but the experience of the place was quite stunning. The next day, I ventured to take a taxi to take me to Ano Syros. The lady driver refused saying there is no one there. How can there be no one there in a village? So she took me around to the other part of the island and after driving through some of stellar beaches like Galissas and Azolimnos and the area where the wealthy once had large mansions that still stand today, she dropped me at Kini beach for lunch. It was a delicious meal sitting right at the edge of the water. Later around 5 pm, she dropped me to Ano Syros. I have not seen anything like this. It is an old town, but it is all in narrow alleys and steps that take you down from the hill. I walked down taking a break in a bar, with breathtaking views of the the island. The village has so access other through donkeys. Even mail is delivered using donkeys.
After two days in Syros, we took a late night ferry to Naxos, the largest island in the Cyclades. Naxos again could not have been more different. On the way from the port to our small quaint hotel, there were bars and nightlife. There were more tourists – a lot of them were high school and college Americans. Perhaps, a cheaper option to Mykonos or Santorini. Naxos had a range of attractions. Right near the port, there is Portara, a massive marble gate, welcomes visitors to the island. We drove through Kinidaros, where a group of old men bantering and sharing colorful stories entertained us. The highlight was the picturesque villages of Apiranthos, which provides two contrasting aspects of life. Early in the morning, it is traditional and one can get a glimpse of Greek life, and then around mid day throngs of tourist pour in and the place changes to a busy affair. Naxos clearly shows that in a few years, will become more touristy as Mykonos and Santorini gets runover with tourism.
All these islands bring to life the character of Cycladic life. The local cuisine and the atmosphere is absolutely enchanting. Tinos captivates with its religious significance and traditional charm, while Syros combines history with a cosmopolitan atmosphere. Naxos, with its historical landmarks and stunning beaches, offers a well-rounded island experience. It was an unforgettable journey and Tinos, Syros, and Naxos encapsulates the magic of the Cyclades. I will long to visit again to relive this experience and seek out new ones.